Who dares to drive more than 3.000 kilometers on a scooter through East Africa? Visiting mountain gorillas? Scooter safaris (does this word exist?) in five National parks† To admire lions, buffaloes, hippos and elephants up close, among other things. My name is Eric and I like to travel around on a scooter. Read here part 16 of the unique report of an amazing scooter adventure Uganda, Rwanda en Kenya† In this part I travel further in the wonderful land of the Karamojong and teach a local to ride a scooter.
Uganda has stolen our hearts more than once and as far as we are concerned it is a travel destination that belongs on the bucket list of every world traveler. Find out why Uganda is called the pearl of Africa.
A trip through Uganda will be one you will never forget. Spot the tree-climbing lions, meet thousands of elephants, come face to face with Mountain Gorillas in the jungle and get to know the beautiful culture.
A tour of Kotido
It really takes some getting used to when I walk around the sandy paths in the center of Kotido. You immediately wonder how a city with more than 20.000 inhabitants does not have a decent asphalt road. You'll get the answer right if you look around.
There are jute bags filled with charcoal along the road. A few men walk with handcarts with yellow jerry cans. 'Those jerry cans are filled with water,' I hear from a transporter. Most houses here do not have running water or a water tank.
I don't like it all. As nice as the photos with donkeys and women with woods on their heads look at first glance. On reflection, it's just bitter poverty if you have to walk for miles on your bare feet with a few pounds of wood on your head.
The receptionist at the Kotido Resort Hotel reassures me when I inquire about the road condition to Moroto. 'Do not worry. The road to Moroto is not asphalt, but it is a well-maintained Murram road. I drive the 110 km to Moroto in less than an hour and a half by car.'
Special encounters in the savannah landscape with Karamojong shepherds
In barely five minutes I left the built-up area of Kotido behind me. The landscape is quite different from the route I took in the past few days in the north of Karamoja. Here it is much drier and there are no rocks. There is little or no car traffic. Only one minibus passes in an hour.
The number of pedestrians on and around the road is quite large. They often walk barefoot and are dressed in traditional clothing. They are always equally surprised to see a 'mzungu' on a scooter.
A group of shepherds sits on the side of the road. They are completely decked out in the typical Karamoja style. Sometimes with a funny hat and always wearing a colorful dress. In addition to the walking stick, they also have a wooden support in their hand. This support is multifunctional. It is a headrest and a seat in one.
I now find myself between two nature reserves, namely: Matheniko Game Reserve and Bokora Wildlife Reserve. A number of species of antelope live in the parks, such as oryx, kob and hartebeest. Their natural enemies here are spotted hyenas and leopards.
I don't see the wildlife. I do see many shepherds going out with their flocks. The Karamojong herders are used to being away from home for days. Often out of dire necessity, because there is nothing to graze for the livestock due to long droughts.
Very sporadically I come across Karamojong settlements. Bags of firewood along the road are a sign that such a settlement is nearby. 'That's for the minibuses and cars that pass by. Our firewood is of high quality,' said one saleswoman.
The Karamojong herders continue to intrigue me. Sometimes they are still children, but they always walk in those colorful blankets. And those feathered hats. wow.
When I see another chipped sign of yet another aid organization, I realize that I am driving through a very vulnerable area. How beautiful the nature is and how friendly and colorful the many Karamojong herders are. I often wonder what became of all those projects.
Traffic congestion and local help with a treacherous water feature
And then there is traffic jam on a pretty difficult stretch of dirt road. A few shepherds herd their goats to the roadside and greet them kindly. One points me to a place in the distance. “Watch out, you'll get stuck there if you don't watch out. It rained heavily here for a few days.'
The warning is not for nothing. I arrive at a huge pool of water. I have no idea how deep it is and if I can go through it with my scooter without sinking into it. Fortunately I see a group of Karamojong standing on the other side and walk towards them through the water. I manage to do that, but every now and then I sink into the sludge. That certainly won't work on a scooter.
The men appear to be standing guard here all day. "We're pushing all the minibuses and cars through the mud, mzungu." I negotiate with them and get out quickly. For 10.000 Ugandan shillings (converted 2,5 euros) they lift my scooter across the pond. In the meantime I stretch my legs and make a movie of the toiling Karamojong.
A test ride on the scooter in Lopei
Around half past three I decide to take a break in the village of Lopen. I buy a bottle of water at a kiosk and there is almost immediately a lot of attention at my scooter. A Karamojong asks me if he can take a ride on that funny piki piki. I doubt at first, because I don't know if he can ride a scooter.
I give him a crash course in scooter riding and tell him where the gas and brake are. 'Don't use this brake! That's the front wheel brake. If you use it, you'll slip. Only use the other one and don't drive too fast.'
The bystanders cheer on their fellow villager as he slowly drives away. Then he gives quite a bit of gas and disappears from view. Hope it turns out fine. A few minutes later, he reappears on the horizon and I record his test drive.
wow. The cheers do not go unnoticed when the hero arrives again. He enjoyed it very much and immediately asks if he can buy the scooter.
At the kiosk I buy a few bottles of water and a few sandwiches. Next to me is a Karamojong woman who at first glance has bumps in her face. On closer inspection, it turns out that these are traditional tattoos.
Arrival in Moroto with scooter breakdown
My timely arrival in Moroto does not go as expected. In Moroto I notice that my scooter is no longer able to take a slight climb. The engine starts sputtering and stalls. It is now a matter of pushing until the road is level again. That's how I get to the reception of the Mount Moroto Hotel. After I've checked in there, I get the address of a repairman.
I drive back the same way and manage to find the workshop. The scooter was dismantled around seven o'clock. The repair is in full swing and will continue the following morning due to the onset of darkness. I get a lift to my hotel and enjoy a delicious dinner.
Uganda has stolen our hearts more than once and as far as we are concerned it is a travel destination that belongs on the bucket list of every world traveler. Find out why Uganda is called the pearl of Africa.
A trip through Uganda will be one you will never forget. Spot the tree-climbing lions, meet thousands of elephants, come face to face with Mountain Gorillas in the jungle and get to know the beautiful culture.