In part 6 of the #pikipikitour in Uganda we really need to get going. We drive from Kitgum to Kidepo Valley National Park. This is a ride of no less than 229 km and the rain hits along the way. It doesn't come to an end until around half past two in the afternoon and we still have more than 100 km to reach Kidepo Valley.
The asphalt road is long gone by then. We slog and plow our scooters over cobblestone paths, loose sand, mud and other hotseknotse begonia variants of roads. By dark we are almost there and Eric completely crashes into the mud with the scooter and a guard from Kidepo refuses us passage... And then Betty is there!
To give you an idea of the extremity of this bizarre ride in Uganda, I put together the above video. Why did we decide to do this with city scooters again?
Uganda has stolen our hearts more than once and as far as we are concerned it is a travel destination that belongs on the bucket list of every world traveler. Find out why Uganda is called the pearl of Africa.
A trip through Uganda will be one you will never forget. Spot the tree-climbing lions, meet thousands of elephants, come face to face with Mountain Gorillas in the jungle and get to know the beautiful culture.
Plan your holiday to Africa here
- Itineraries you can compare + request quotes Africaplus, Africa tailor-made, Djoser, king monkey, rickshaw travel, sawadee en shoestring.
- Flight tickets for Africa you book through Skyscanner.
- Hostels, Hotels and Resorts in Africa you book Booking.com.
- Rental cars : Sunnycars en rental cars.
- Tours and Activities in Africa you book through GetYourGuide.
- travel items such as suitcases, bags and more you can buy at Bol.com.
- SIM cards for Africa you buy extra International sim.
- Parking at the airport you can arrange via Parkos, park care of iParking.
It's pouring rain in Aswa
In Gulu it rained quite a lot during the night. The puddles of water in front of the entrance of Bomah Hotel speak volumes in that regard. 'What fell in the night can no longer fall today,' is my logic. Take full fresh courage Eric and I take our scooters for quite a long drive of nearly 230 miles to Kidepo Valley NP, on the border with Southern Sudan.
The sky changes rapidly and after forty kilometers we only hope that the dark gray cloud cover will pass us. Of course that does not happen and after a quiet start it is now pouring out of the sky. For more than three hours we are waiting in the hamlet of Aswa under a shelter. We study numerous rainfall radars, but it does not make us any wiser. Just 'pole pole' or 'wait and see' is the motto.
Also read: Uganda | These are the top 5 must-see sights
The torrential rains stop after about three hours. It is high time to continue in the drizzle, because there are more than 150 km to follow.
On the way to Kidepo Valley NP
Just before Kitgum we take the exit to Kidepo. It immediately means the end of the beautiful asphalt road. From my two previous scooter trips here I know that there are now more than 130 km of sand, gravel and cobblestone paths. In general, it is a dry area and most trails are easily accessible. Until the mountains of Kidepo, because there it rains almost every day.
By half past four we had made reasonable progress. It's time to rest and eat a late lunch. We'll take one rolex (rolling eggs is a popular roadside dish in Uganda: a chapati with eggs, tomato, onion and bell pepper). The cook does have a special frying pan. The frying pan is made from a car rim. Why recycling?
Read also:
- Plowing through the mud in Uganda with a scooter (video)
- Buy a scooter in Uganda & ViaVia Guesthouse
- Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, refugees & scooter breakdown
- Murchison Falls N.P. | The first scooter safari
- Drone images scooter safari | Murchison Falls
- Bad luck in Pakwach and Gulu Central Market
- Kidepo Valley | The legacy of Idi Amin
Darkness falls and we are not allowed to go any further…
We continue on our way, but we can't drive really fast on the challenging trails. By six o'clock we are really almost there. Eric now recognizes the rock at the entrance of Kidepo Valley National Park. Meanwhile, I film him as he literally plows through the mud (seen in the video at the top of this page), as darkness falls. On the slippers we balance our scooters through the mud. Later when it is dark, Eric also falls down quite a bit.
In the pitch dark we arrive at the entrance of Kidepo Valley NP. Two heavily armed guards have seen us and are walking towards us. "We can't let you drive any further, because it's dark."
'But we're almost there! We have driven more than 200 km and are almost at the Kidepo Savannah Lodge“says Eric.
'No way. A herd of elephants just walked that way. What if you have an accident? Then we did it“say the guards.
We are wrecked from the infernal ride and curse the guards. But of course the guards are absolutely right.
What idiots of mzungu's… In the dark with scooters between the wild animals… Will they have thought…
But then suddenly a jeep appears Uganda Wildlife Authority (UVA). 'Hey Eric,' we hear from the jeep. 'You're back. I am so happy to see you. Mandela (her son) will be delighted. He still talks about you!' Then Eric sees the face of Betty, the manager of Apoka rest camp.
Eric tells her we can't go any further. That problem is solved immediately - Betty will arrange that with the guards. Betty's jeep will then escort us on the remaining 17 km. Along the way, Eric also slides completely down in the mud.
Kidepo Savannah Lodge
We are then warmly welcomed in the brand new Kidepo Savannah Lodge. Apart from two other families, we seem to be the only guests. After an extensive three-course menu we go to sleep. The next morning we look our eyes out. Where have we ended up now?! in a natural paradise pur sang… I set up my GoPro for a short Time Lapse video as the sun rises and the clouds roll into the valley. In the meantime I enjoy the wild many animals that I spot between the tall grass. That promises something, the next few days in Kipedo Valley National Park.
In the next part we explore the beautiful Kidepo Valley National Park by scooter and spend the night in the rest camp. We visit the former (and beautifully situated) private lodge of Go Amen who from here on his hunts managed to wipe out the game population in Kidepo. We see a lot of wild animals and meet fearful ones Karamoja children, who are on their way home with jerry cans full of water on their heads. They aim it at the verge and start walking. Oh and then I conjure up my lollipops…
See you ever, see you soon Uganda.
Read also:
- Plowing through the mud in Uganda with a scooter (video)
- Buy a scooter in Uganda & ViaVia Guesthouse
- Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, refugees & scooter breakdown
- Murchison Falls N.P. | The first scooter safari
- Drone images scooter safari | Murchison Falls
- Bad luck in Pakwach and Gulu Central Market
- Kidepo Valley | The legacy of Idi Amin
Uganda has stolen our hearts more than once and as far as we are concerned it is a travel destination that belongs on the bucket list of every world traveler. Find out why Uganda is called the pearl of Africa.
A trip through Uganda will be one you will never forget. Spot the tree-climbing lions, meet thousands of elephants, come face to face with Mountain Gorillas in the jungle and get to know the beautiful culture.
Plan your holiday to Africa here
- Itineraries you can compare + request quotes Africaplus, Africa tailor-made, Djoser, king monkey, rickshaw travel, sawadee en shoestring.
- Flight tickets for Africa you book through Skyscanner.
- Hostels, Hotels and Resorts in Africa you book Booking.com.
- Rental cars : Sunnycars en rental cars.
- Tours and Activities in Africa you book through GetYourGuide.
- travel items such as suitcases, bags and more you can buy at Bol.com.
- SIM cards for Africa you buy extra International sim.
- Parking at the airport you can arrange via Parkos, park care of iParking.
