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Roadtrip Africa | Kerio divers & school children

In this fourth blog of my Scooter roadtrip the Kenyans go much too fast through Africa, a school attacks my lollipop stock, I admire the breakneck feats of the Kerio divers and there is a lot of flooding to report (flooding of the Great Rift Lakes).

A round of Iten: Marathon training

There is only one other guest in the Kimana lodge. A German who is training for the marathon. According to him, every self-respecting marathon runner has been to Iten. He went out early this morning to train again.

When I chug towards Iten an hour later, I see about 200 meters away from the rest of his group. 'Those Kenyans are simply impossible to keep up with,' is his justified conclusion.

Just a quick tour through the village and then I decide to race along the Kerio valley.

The Kerio Valley

The Kerio Valley
The Kerio Valley

From Iten I drive direction Marigate. The 100km road is nothing short of spectacular as it runs parallel to the Kerio Valley (Location here ). The height difference is approximately 1.500 meters and that naturally produces beautiful panoramas.

I am now in Baringo County. There was once a lake here that had the second largest population of crocodiles (more than 20.000) after Lake Chad. Unfortunately, almost nothing is left of it. Where flooding in the other lakes of the Great Rift Valley have led to its considerable expansion (Lake Naivasha, Baringo, Bogoria, Elementaria and Nakuru) is Lake Kamnarok almost dried up. Today it is not possible to visit the remnants of Lake Kamnarok by scooter. Heavy rainfall has turned the dirt road to Kamnarok into a mud puddle.

There is not much traffic on the well-maintained road. Occasionally a mqatatu passes. The road users are mainly shepherds with their cows and goats.

Traffic on the Iten - Marigat road
Traffic on the Iten – Marigat road

A tam-tam festival 

About 30 km before Marigat I decide to get off the scooter. I see three children in their beautiful school uniforms. However, when I pull out my bag of lollipops, quite a discussion ensues. “It's not good to give those kids lollipops. That's unhealthy and bad for their teeth,' I hear. Frankly, he's kind of right. In hindsight, not again. The best man runs a stall for a primary school. And what is for sale there? Only candy 😃.

A school class in Kerio Valley enjoys a 🍭
A school class in Kerio Valley enjoys a 🍭

And he should have warned me. At first there were three children, but that doesn't last long. The result is that I, together with a few teachers, have to create order in a complete chaos. More than 200 children demand a lollipop. Fortunately, I just bought five bags in Iten and I don't have to disappoint anyone.

The Kerio divers

And then I'm almost right at the next stop. Due to a complete lack of tourists (Covid), the operators and the consequence of this downright spectacle are bored. Yes, I'm with the Kerio divers.

The Divers Shop of the Kerio Divers is closed
The Divers Shop of the Kerio Divers is closed
The Kerio diverse and following
The Kerio divers and supporters

For 500 Kenyan Schilling, one jumps almost thirty meters into a ravine. Oh see the video. Very nice, De Kerio divers in action with sound.

Lake Bogoria Spa Resort

With Marigate I drive 30 km north. In 2018 I stayed in a village on the banks of Lake Baringo. Many hotels had already completely or partially disappeared into the water. In 2021, it is even extremely popular with tour groups Soi Safari Lodge half disappeared into the water. In 2018, this lodge was continuously full with more than 35 rooms. Now there is nobody. Even the cook is arguing. The receptionist does offer me a room for 80 euros. Nothing seems to be wrong on the floor above… Meanwhile, two ostriches shit in the poisonous green water of the swimming pool.

Doing laundry among crocodiles, hakuna matata in Lake Baringo
Doing laundry among crocodiles, hakuna matata in Lake Baringo

Oh and the ladies are washing. They don't care one bit that Lake Baringo is teeming with crocodiles. The crocodiles are well raised here. "In Lake Turkana they kill you, but here they don't."

Two crocodiles in front of Soi Safari Lodge, Lake Baringo
Two crocodiles in front of Soi Safari Lodge, Lake Baringo
The beautiful crane in Lake Baringo
The beautiful crane in Lake Baringo

I just move to Lake Bogoria, 40 km further south. There is Kenya's only spa resort: Lake Bogoria Spa Resort. I have to work at the reception. As is customary in Kenya, two prices are used. A local and a 'mzungu' price. The difference is almost 200 euros. The hotel has 90 rooms and not a single guest. After a short conversation with the manager I can pass as Kenyan. And so for the next four days I will be the only guest.

Lake Bogoria Spa Resort | Photo: Booking.com

In the next blog I will pay full attention to both lakes and more. Because there really is a lot to experience and see here…

Lake Bogoria Spa Resort
Lake Bogoria Spa Resort
Eric on a scooter in Uganda

Eric

What is it like to drive more than 10.000 kilometers in Madagascar on a locally bought scooter? Or on a pikipiki (scooter in Swahili) through East Africa? In more than 20 years I have visited more than 100 countries. This has resulted in a lot of priceless travel experiences, which I would like to share with you.

ERIC – OVER 100 COUNTRIES
– Currently in Kenya.
– Share unique travel experiences.
– Favorite destinations: Madagascar, Uganda, Japan, India and Colombia.

Seen a mistake? Ask? Remark? Let us know in the comments!

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Eric on a scooter in Uganda

Eric

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