Who dares to drive more than 3.000 kilometers on a scooter through East Africa? Visiting mountain gorillas? Scooter safaris (does this word exist?) in five National parks† To admire lions, buffaloes, hippos and elephants up close, among other things. My name is Eric and I like to travel around on a scooter. Read here part 5 of the unique report of an amazing scooter adventure Uganda, Rwanda en Kenya† In the seventh part of this trip I drive from Kabale to Queen Elizabeth National Park a journey of about 175 kilometers.
Uganda has stolen our hearts more than once and as far as we are concerned it is a travel destination that belongs on the bucket list of every world traveler. Find out why Uganda is called the pearl of Africa.
A trip through Uganda will be one you will never forget. Spot the tree-climbing lions, meet thousands of elephants, come face to face with Mountain Gorillas in the jungle and get to know the beautiful culture.
Plan your holiday to Africa here
- Itineraries you can compare + request quotes Africaplus, Africa tailor-made, Djoser, king monkey, rickshaw travel, sawadee en shoestring.
- Flight tickets for Africa you book through Skyscanner.
- Hostels, Hotels and Resorts in Africa you book Booking.com.
- Rental cars : Sunnycars en rental cars.
- Tours and Activities in Africa you book through GetYourGuide.
- travel items such as suitcases, bags and more you can buy at Bol.com.
- SIM cards for Africa you buy extra International sim.
- Parking at the airport you can arrange via Parkos, park care of iParking.
Ankole cows and speed bump lesson
Lynn and little David van Cabal backpackers wave me off. 'Watch the road carefully. There's a lot of holes in it," Lynn warns. The road is fine for the first 75 km towards the exit. I can drive through. Every now and then a herd of Ankole cows graze along the road, with or without guidance. The sun is shining and there is not a cloud in the sky.
I just haven't fallen asleep yet, but it doesn't matter much. Apparently I missed a warning sign as I am now bouncing over the six 'rumble strips' announcing a speed bump. I brake automatically and that's exactly why these strips are here. At too high a speed I cannot pass this speed bump without being unscathed or a broken scooter.
I can now dream the scenario of the speed bumps. Outside built-up areas they occur sporadically and are fairly flat. Rumble strips announce a speed bump immediately before and after a built-up area. In the large villages there are then another three in the center, of which the middle one can only be passed at walking pace.
Heaven comes down in Ishaka
In barely fifteen minutes the blue sky has given way to a dark gray cloud cover. As I enter Ishaka it starts to rain. Quiet at first, but then the rain swells. Just in time I can hide with my scooter under a shelter along the road to witness a real cloudburst. Even a truck doesn't see a chance to continue driving in this weather.
Scooters and rain don't mix. “Don't drive right after the rain is over. Wait for the road surface to dry," one motorcyclist advises. “You're bound to fall if you don't. The road is slippery.' After an hour and a half the rain stopped. Half an hour later the road is almost dry again. I still have 50 very nice kilometers to go…
Baboons, poisonous green tea plantations and 52 crater lakes
It is a pleasure to drive here. Especially now that the rain has shrouded the area in mysterious mists. This has to be one of the most beautiful routes in Uganda. The road runs through the area of the 52 crater lakes of Bunyaruguru.
There seems to be no end to the tea plantations. Only after 30 kilometers does a mountain gorge put an end to the poisonous green 'violence of nature'. Well, it's not real nature, of course, those tea plantations, but it sure is beautiful.
Just past the village of Lutoto I first have to work to avoid a few baboons. They don't know I'm coming from the right. It does get me a few angry looks.
More and more baboons are now appearing. They prefer the dry road to the wet forests and reported en masse on the road.
I am now at the first crater lake of the 52 of Bunyaruguru. Unfortunately I can't get a picture of the main features of Lake Nkugute. The lake is considered by some to be the deepest lake in Africa and it is shaped like the African continent. Both features are not visible in the photo.
One last bend and I suddenly look out over part of Queen Elizabeth National Park and Lake Edward. A nice place to immortalize my perky scooter.
The Ugandan banana blues in Kichwamba
And now it is high time for a remarkable activity of many Ugandan women: the Ugandan banana blues. For this episode I traveled to the hamlet of Kichwamba on the border with Queen Elizabeth National Park. That's where it happens every day. Those banana blues. From sunrise to sunset…
How are those blues put together? Now take a look. In the absence of passing vehicles, the banana blues briegade sits along the road with their merchandise. They wait patiently…
I am of course very curious and ask one of the ladies if no one comes up with the idea of selling something other than bananas. "Yes, we have mangoes too," she replies. "It can't have a name," I say. "That couple?" 'Wait a minute mzungu (white man). Trade is coming!' Gone are they…
It would drive you completely mad as a driver. Of all those banana women. When my interlocutor returns after the car storm, she smiles broadly. 'I didn't sell a banana, mzungu. There were too many others who also sold bananas.'
A matatu (minibus) arrives. The banana blues brigade is once again throwing itself into it en masse.
“Mzungu, you bring good luck. I sold a bunch of bananas.' I shake my head and say, "I don't get it. Why is everyone peddling the same thing. A banana is a banana. Why don't you sell chips, chapatis or sodas?'
'Mzungu, you really don't get it. Did you really think we care if we sell bananas? We have the greatest fun all day long. That's what it's about. Those bananas are just an afterthought.'
The ladies yell loudly as I get back on my scooter. And for the record: in many villages in Uganda the banana blues is a daily ritual. The blues is always a women's business (sometimes with a few children) and there is a lot of laughter.
A kilometer away I still find it. There, three young men are grilling delicious pieces of meat under the supervision of female management. I'm in the mood for some chicken thighs.
On a scooter safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park
The potholes in the road have meanwhile become such that many cars drive more on the verge than on the road. I overtake them all on my scooter and honk a friendly horn. 'SLOW DOWN ACCIDENT AHEAD' I read a sign on the road. A little further on, a trailer has been pulled behind a truck.
This is delicious. I circle deftly past the many holes, enjoying a genuine safari. In front of me a safari vehicle drives into the roadside. A baboon looks at it with interest.
It is now half past six and I am well in time at the Engiri Safari and Game Lodge, where I will be staying for the next two nights. Plenty of time to admire all the wildlife and more in the area.
End part 7.
Uganda has stolen our hearts more than once and as far as we are concerned it is a travel destination that belongs on the bucket list of every world traveler. Find out why Uganda is called the pearl of Africa.
A trip through Uganda will be one you will never forget. Spot the tree-climbing lions, meet thousands of elephants, come face to face with Mountain Gorillas in the jungle and get to know the beautiful culture.
Plan your holiday to Africa here
- Itineraries you can compare + request quotes Africaplus, Africa tailor-made, Djoser, king monkey, rickshaw travel, sawadee en shoestring.
- Flight tickets for Africa you book through Skyscanner.
- Hostels, Hotels and Resorts in Africa you book Booking.com.
- Rental cars : Sunnycars en rental cars.
- Tours and Activities in Africa you book through GetYourGuide.
- travel items such as suitcases, bags and more you can buy at Bol.com.
- SIM cards for Africa you buy extra International sim.
- Parking at the airport you can arrange via Parkos, park care of iParking.
