In the previous blog you could read how we used our NoFear 4×4 . via Denmark camper on the ferry to the Faroe Islands shipped with the final destination: Iceland. After a short stopover of a few days on the Faroe Islands, the camper went back on the ferry and the roadtrip through Iceland with our 4×4 motorhome really start. The estimated time of arrival of our ferry in Seydisfjordur (Iceland) from the Faroe Islands (Denmark) is 18.00 p.m.
Ferry arrival in Seydisfjordur
Land is already in sight three hours in advance. It's just dawn…the last daylight. As we get closer the mountains get higher and more imposing, covered with snow. We seem to be almost there, but no, the ship still needs more than an hour to cover the last part through the long fjord. It is now dark. We only see the lights around the harbor and the village.
Before we can leave the ship, Icelandic authorities come on board. They check whether every passenger meets the applicable Covid requirements. When it vaccination certificate, the last test and the signed statements of all passengers have been approved, everyone can leave the ship after more than an hour. When leaving, a friendly customs officer asks about the travel plans and checks our 4×4 camper for winter tires. He warns us to be extra alert for strong winds and wishes us a nice trip!
Trapped
Through Netflix we come into contact with the Icelandic series Trapped† Because the series is set around the harbor town of Seydisfjordur, it is a feast for us to recognize. The village, the ferry and the regularly recurring harsh weather conditions are beautifully portrayed. Even if you don't like crime series, the recordings are well worth watching. You can watch the trailer for the series below:
Roadtrip by Iceland (part 1)
A first introduction to Iceland. We start our 4×4 roadtrip through Iceland from Seydisfjordur where we arrived with our 4×4 camper via a ferry. From there we first drive west to Egilssta∂ir and then continue southwards via the well-known ring road, the 'Ringroad'.
Egilsstadir
Our first destination is Egilssta∂ir. This means that we have to pass a mountain pass with a height of about 700 meters. The road is bad: code dark red for Dutch standards† The road is full of ice shelves, snow and a stormy wind that causes snowdrifts. Along the way we see stranded cars in the roadside… Okay, now we're fully focused! We have nothing left but caution in the coming weeks! In Egilssta∂ir we buy a gas bottle and a data SIM card so that we can use the internet without restrictions. The shop assistants are friendly and very helpful.
We continue our way south via the well-known “Ringroad”, the 1350 kilometer long ring road across Iceland. On the east and southeast side, Iceland consists mainly of fjords. The road winds along the coast and we enjoy the breathtaking views of snowy mountains.
Vatnajokull . National Park
After many (photo) stops along the way we come close to Vatnajokull . National Park† Here the glacier of the same name is a spectacular natural phenomenon. The glacier, which is the second largest of Europe has many glacial tongues, most of which open towards the Atlantic Ocean. Meanwhile, the glacier tongue Breiðamerkurjökull - which we visited - has retreated about 3 kilometers due to melting. Huge glacial lakes and wide waterways have been created as a result. In the glacial lakes float large light blue ice chunks which have broken off from the glaciers. The deep blue color has been given to the ice by centuries of great pressure from the glacier, as a result of which almost all oxygen has been squeezed out of the ice.
A little further on we arrive at the visitor center Skaftefell, belonging to the national park. From here we take walks to other glacier tongues, waterfalls and ice caves. Led by a professional guide we will take a glacier walk. We are very impressed by all the natural phenomena we see. We can hardly make a choice from the many photos we take. Four pieces below.
Off-road to the Lava Fields
On the way to the southernmost village of Iceland called Vik we pass vast lava fields. It consists of lava fragments which are covered with moss. Instead of the Ringroad we take a bumpy gravel road… through the middle of the lava fields. It sometimes reminds us of previous trips through Australië, endless gravel roads and vistas. What a freedom!
Fjarárgljufur
We also find lava rock covered with moss at Fjarárgljufur† There's something mysterious about the dark carved gorge. In the gorge we see a few roaring waterfalls that flow into the river Fja∂rà. From the high footpath you can look into the depths at various places.
Vik
Vik, the southernmost settlement in Iceland, has a lot to offer. Vik is a popular stop for day trippers from Reykjavik. Many vans with travelers are unloaded here to quickly do their shopping in the local souvenir shop and to shoot a picture.
We take a look around at “Black Beach”. The black lava sand has a special structure. It's wet, but won't stick to your hands. A remarkable experience.
From the beach we walk zigzagging up the cliff via a well-maintained footpath. We get a nice overview of the village with its remarkable red/white church.
But even more impressive we find the cliff where tens of thousands of Northern Fulmars live, which can fly beautifully on the wind. They have the property of spitting out a dirty oily substance when they feel threatened.
The climb is tough for a while, but when we are at the top we are amply rewarded. Spectacular views, both left and right. We venture - close to the edge - and look into the deep, where big waves crash against the rocks and the petrels skim past us.
Later we descend slowly towards the village and are treated to a fierce hailstorm with wind force 8. Fortunately, we do what it is made for warm, wind- and waterproof clothing.
Crossing the river with the 4×4 camper
After viewing a few more waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, we head for the ferry terminal where the ferry to the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago departs. No luck this time, the boat is not sailing due to low tide. This situation isn't going to change anytime soon, so we're changing our plans.
We decide to take an off-road route towards Porsmork, starting point for walks and camping. The road is a bumpy gravel road through a flat but rugged area where countless streams and rivers find their way to the sea.
Many times we have to wade through rivers where snow and ice remnants make it even more adventurous. Watch the video below of one of the river crossings we made with our 4×4 camper.
Along the way we stop just anywhere to take a walk between streams, snow, ice and mountains. In the distance we see another glacier tongue rising high out of the mountains. At the end point, the campsite appears to be closed. We had already taken that into account a bit… we camp this night on a flat part along the gravel road. It is now dusk and no one comes here anymore.
Remark: You don't have to worry about safety in Iceland. The country has been number 1 of safest countries in Europe and with that it is also directly at number 1 of the safest countries in the world.
Blue Lagoon | Secret Lagoon
As an alternative to the hugely commercial, popular and busy Blue Lagoon, we are looking for a smaller and more intimate hot pool. We find it… with the name Secret Lagoon† No bling bling at the Secret Lagoon, but friendly employees and a hot spring with an appealing history. The sulphurous water of about 40 degrees is contained in a bath made up of lava blocks. In various places the water from the sources of about 100 degrees steams into the lagoon. The pool has different depths with a bottom of lava gravel. How natural do you want it.
Entirely in accordance with Icelandic tradition, you must shower beforehand - completely undressed. The heat from the hot springs is also used in the adjacent greenhouses where tomatoes are grown.
Thingvellir . National Park
After visiting the waterfalls Gullfoss and Bruarfoss and the geyser Strokkur, then we roadtrip through Iceland and take a look at Thingvellir . National Park† In this national park history and geology come together. Unique geology because here two tectonic plates drift apart. The result is huge cracks and fissures in the earth's surface. According to geologists, the Eurasian and North American continental plates are drifting 1 to 2 centimeters apart here every year.
Read also: Worldly | How many continents are there? 5, 6, 7 or 8?
The history of this place is impressive because the first and oldest parliament sat here around 930. Laws were made and monitored. Those who did not obey the law were punished by drowning, hanging or beheading. Brrr, a place to remember.
We take a winter walk through the park.
In this unique place it is possible to dive and snorkel in the Silfra gorge which flows into the glacial lake Thingvallavatn. We think this is a fantastic challenge. The water in this lake is so clear that you can see underwater up to 100 meters. The content of the lake is constantly refreshed by the supply of glacier water, which has found its way through many layers of the earth. Cold…2 degrees!
We go into the water to snorkel. We are given a so-called “dry suit”. A suit where the water does not come into contact with your body. The weather is very bad before, during and after diving. A gale force wind and snowfall at -5. In the water it is better than above it…
We can recommend this snorkeling experience to everyone. We dived through troll.is and that went very well. By the way, there are multiple providers.
Reykjanus, the extreme southwest
Before we visit the capital Reykjavik, we first drive to the extreme southwest of the country.
We come across many hot springs. The source at Reykjadalur ends in a river that you can then swim in. For this you have to walk up a mountain for about 3,5 kilometers. But it's definitely worth it.
Via remote country roads in the middle of a snow storm we drive stiffly along the coast through barely trodden lava fields. It gets dark and we decide to take an exit that takes us via a gravel road to the Krysuvikururberg Cliffs. We decide to set up camp here in the middle of nowhere. The next morning we take a walk on the rugged cliff and enjoy every second of it.
Fagradalsflall
On the Reykjanus Peninsula is the volcano Fagradalsfall erupted again in 2021 after some 6000 years. So a unique event. We put on our hiking boots and go to investigate, to see what we can see here. After a walk of 2 kilometers we already see the new lava fields, where to our surprise the lava is still smoking. A little further on we see one of the craters with a second one behind it. We walk a little further through difficult terrain and see where the lava recently came out of the crater. Wikipedia contains many more ins and outs about the recent eruption.
Read also: Top 10 Volcanoes in Iceland | Otherworldly, impressive and active
Closing comments
This was part 1 of our roadtrip Iceland with our NoFear 4×4 camper. We drove through both the ring road and offroad tracks through rivers from Seydisfjordur towards Reykjavik. We will continue our journey for the next few days and continue in the direction of Reykjavik where we will start our next travel report.
