After two weeks with our 4 × 4 camper the south of Iceland After traveling, it's time to visit the capital Reykjavik. We still have about 40 miles to travel across the Reykjanes Peninsula, where a code red has been issued due to a hurricane-force storm. To avoid accidents, we calmly drive towards the city where we do our shopping in a rural area. We find a spot at camping Reykjavik, where a few other winter campers are staying.
In the meantime we have also made two compilation films of our journey with matching music. You can watch the first one at the top of this page, the second compilation video is at the very bottom.
Roadtrip Iceland part 2: Reykjavik to Seydisfjördur
Reykjavik
A city?...it's actually a big village, but with all the trimmings. Of the 370.000 Icelanders, 123.000 live in the capital.
Outside the center we see a lot of activity in modern factories and office buildings. We find the spacious layout, lots of space between the buildings and wide roads striking. Logical in a country where space is hardly an issue.
While it snows lightly all day, we explore the streets in the old center. We are looking for a hairdresser. There are plenty of them, but they are still closed or occupied. Later we got a hold of it and Cor has his haircut that has grown long since then.
In the center of Reykjavik there are a few historic buildings, including a cathedral from 1787. We take a look. In more detail, we look at the Settlement Exebition, a beautiful exhibition where theories about the first inhabitants of Iceland are portrayed. In 871 AD the Vikings settled where Reykjavik is now.
In a small cafe we talk to the barmaid who tells extensively about Icelanders. While enjoying a cup of coffee with a local specialty, she characterizes the population as closed and to herself. There is little crime and people rely on each other.
We conclude the visit to Reykjavik with a look at Harpa, a large concert and convention center. It opened its doors in 2011 after construction had been in jeopardy for years due to the banking crises of the previous years.
The architectural design of the building is stunning.
Further west: Hussafell and Hraunfossar waterfall
We fill our "long range diesel tank" of the camper, leave the city and go in search of adventure and nature again. On the way in a northerly direction it is a bit gray and gray due to the clouds and light snowfall. Here and there we see a plume of smoke from a hot spring.
On the way we take a walk in the recreation area Hussafell and look at the special waterfall Hraunfossar.
On the Snæffelsnes peninsula we navigate through a stormy wind with snowdrifts. Driving over the flat lava fields with the glacier Snæffelsjökull on the right and the ocean crashing on the spectacular cliffs on the left, we enjoy every minute of it.
The way back along the north side of the peninsula is very adventurous. No vast lava fields, but here we steer on winding roads with mega beautiful views over the coves and steep mountains.
Just before we reach the Westfjords we find a “hotpot” in a remote village where there is no one to be seen. We make grateful use of it.
Also read: Top 10 Volcanoes in Iceland | Otherworldly, impressive and active
The Westfjords
The Westfjords, that's a different story. A handful of people live here, far removed from the rest of Iceland. The driving time to the capital is usually about 5-6 hours. The villages are scattered between the many fjords, always on the water and most of them were created because people could earn a few cents from fishing. The weather conditions are often harsh in winter. Large amounts of snow, strong winds and low temperatures.
But the inhabitants are hardy, used to the circumstances and most of them don't want to do anything but stay there. We understand that the untouched nature between the many fjords is to die for. Even in winter, when many roads and hiking trails are closed, you can still fully enjoy it. Watch the short video below:
We report to the local tourist information point in Isafjordur where we are the first visitors in weeks. The enthusiastic employee tells about life in this remote place. We enjoy his stories.
Navigating through snow storms
Road conditions were very challenging during our visit. We squeeze through huge snow storms while we receive a message that parts of the road - both in front and behind us - are closed. We park the 4×4 motorhome in a parking lot and wait a night until the situation improves. The next day we can continue. The weather has improved and we enjoy the fantastic views over the fjords again. In various places we spot seals, lounging on a rock. We make use of the various hot-pots that just appear in the middle of the landscape. Good for body and mind.
Changed planning during Akureyri . visit
During our visit to the capital of the north, Akureyri, we are forced to change our schedule. Although we usually live from day to day, a little planning is necessary, especially if you know that the ferry back to Denmark only once a week. From The Netherlands we will receive a message about the upcoming storm in combination with code red what about Iceland will be scattered.
We now know that with heavy snowfall and strong winds, roads become impassable and closures can last for days. Moreover, to get to the port city, we still have to cross a mountain pass. There is no other option than to drive to the port city in advance… we don't want to miss the boat.
In Eglisstadir we find a spot with the camper rigid next to a sea container that can protect us against the strongest gusts of wind. Later it turns out that the wind in the east of the country is not too bad, in contrast to the snowfall… 40 cm 6 hours. Just as we have dug ourselves out again, we receive a message from the ferry company that the departure has been postponed for at least one day due to a severe storm in the North Atlantic.
So we still have a few days to explore the east.
Also read: 10 fun things to do in Iceland | Make the most of your trip!
Vok Baths
Iceland is known for its many hot springs. They come in many sizes and types. Sometimes we find a freely accessible pool of a few square meters in the middle of the landscape. Sometimes a large commercial complex has been built around the source, where they make grateful use of the free energy.
We visit a very special spring near Eglisstadir. Here are three modern baths, two of which float in the adjacent lake. This means that you can enjoy bathing in water at 40 degrees and touch the ice of the frozen lake. The view is phenomenal. In the evening when it gets dark and there is finally a clear sky, we are floating on our backs, counting stars and enjoying the half full moon.
Skiing at Akureyri and Seydisfjördur
One of our hobbies is skiing. Glide down the mountain in a swaying and swaying way in a beautiful mountainous environment filled with clean air. In Iceland, skiing has a different meaning than what we are used to in the Alpine countries. There are a handful of more developed pistes, but many more "village" pistes.
The ski area near the northern capital Akureyri has more of a more modern slope. Here are several chairlifts and a variety of descents. You can rent equipment and there is a small catering establishment. Our impression is that most winter sports enthusiasts come here from Akureyri, over which, by the way, you have a fantastic view from the slopes.
Just before we take the boat back to Denmark we pass an area near Seydisfjördur. We still have enough time and decide to get the skis from the camper. It concerns an area with two drag lifts, one employee and six other skiers. The employee does the rental, ticket sales and elevator operation. Once a day, the slopes are prepared by an employee who works as a road worker during the summer.
At the end of the day it actually gets busy with school children getting ski lessons. Wonderful, we think such a small-scale village course, where it is intimate skiing. Ski slopes in Iceland are often well lit, so that there is still plenty of skiing at the end of the afternoon and in the evening.
Conclusion after a month of "winter" Iceland
In Iceland we are overwhelmed by the powerful and beautiful nature. Waterfalls, cliffs, landscapes, hot springs and glaciers like we've never seen elsewhere on our travels. The pristine, wide landscape makes you forget that the world is actually overpopulated. About 370.000 people live in Iceland, making it one of the least densely populated countries in the world. Hopefully the millions of tourists who visit the island, especially in summer, will not spoil the untouched, authentic and clean nature.
We have experienced Icelanders as somewhat shy and withdrawn. Still, when you have contact with them they are extremely friendly and helpful. If it turns out that way, we would like to go back in the summer, which will undoubtedly provide a completely different experience.
Now we go back to Denmark and transfer to the boat to the Norwegian Kristiansand, where we continue our journey north to Lapland. In the meantime, we enjoy the 2nd compilation film we made, which can be seen below.
