Advent Zagreb | Winter city trip with Christmas markets in Croatia

Croatia is mainly known as a summer destination. So I hadn't thought about Zagreb as a winter destination destination to visit. But after seeing the city, the surrounding region and associated Advent Zagreb (#adventzagreb) Christmas markets, I'm completely sold. What a great fun experience! Millions of Christmas lights, fantastic food, delicious wine, wellness and lots of fun.

I made a short trip to Croatia with a packed program to provide you with the best tips. Because the locations and activities of this trip were quite diverse, I will divide this trip into several articles. The first article mainly focuses on Advent Zagreb, the Christmas market of the capital of Croatia and the activities you can easily enjoy from Zagreb. Are you traveling with me?

Direct flight to Zagreb

I started this journey Amsterdam Schiphol. From here I flew with a direct flight in 2 hours and 15 minutes to Zagreb with Croatian Airlines. The flight with Croatian Airlines went smoothly and was well taken care of. Along the way we received a bag of nuts, a bar of chocolate and twice water. Not bad for such a short flight!

Tip:: What is good to know is that KLM, Transavia and Ryanair also fly to Zagreb. On this page Skyscanner allows you to compare flights and airlines.

As always, and I keep repeating it, always book your flight via Skyscanner.nl, because this is simply the best comparator and because you are on Skyscanner You can choose to book directly with the airline. Read more about the how and why in the article below.

Also read: Skyscanner | How to save (a lot of) money on flights

Tips for Zagreb in winter

Zagreb card

You can of course use this card at any time of the year, so this card will also come in handy in winter. With the Zagreb card you can visit 6 famous attractions in the city for free and use various trams and trains for free, including the world's shortest Funicular Railway. With the Zagrab Card you also get a big discount on 56 other attractions spread over the city. The Zagreb Card costs only 24 euros for 13 hours. You will of course figure that out very quickly. So highly recommended!

Advent Zagreb (the Christmas market)

The highlight of a trip to Zagreb in winter is, of course, the event called Advent Zagreb, the Christmas market. The nice thing about this event is that it is not just a Christmas market. It's gi-gan-tic! It is a major event, spread over the old city center with many nicely lit places, Christmas markets, skating rinks and even live music. It felt more like a big outdoor festival in the city. And that in the winter!

At no less than 16 locations in the old town, you will find beautifully decorated Christmas markets and cozy places Advent Zagreb. The city is divided into two districts, UpperTown en Lower Town.

Upper Town Advent locations

In the higher Upper Town you can visit these 7 locations during Advent Zagreb.

1. Bella IV. park (location here)
2. Park Gric (location here)
3. Gric Tunnel (location here)
4. Panoramic View-Point of Zagreb City (Location here)
5. Strossmayer Promenade West (location here)
6. St. Mark's Square (location here)

Tip:: Log in to Google Maps with your Google account and save all the locations mentioned above in your own map! Then you always have all hotspots directly at hand on your smartphone, which makes navigating through a city a lot easier.

Lower Town Advent locations

In Lower Town, the lower part of the city, there is during Advent Zagreb event also lots to see and do. How about the huge skating rink King Tomislav Square? During the day it is already a pleasure to walk around or skate here, but in the evening the skating square really comes to life. Order a delicious, spicy mulled wine and mingle with the millions of Christmas lights and many locals who enjoy the Christmas market here.

Located in the lower Lower Town you can visit these 9 locations during Advent Zagreb.

1. European Square (location here)
2. Croatian National Theater (venue here)
3. Jelacic Square (location here)
4. Dr. Franjo Tudman Square (location here)
5. JJ Strossmayer Square (location here)
6. King Tomislav Square (location here)
7. Zrinjevac Park (location here)
8. The Old Vlasca Street (location here)
9. Oktogon Passage (location here)

Tip:: Want to discover more great places in Croatia? Then read our blog about the most beautiful beach in Croatia, Pasjaca Beach. Of course one can city ​​trip to Dubrovnik Also don't miss or read our articles about it Sibenik, Krka National Park, Advent Zagreb (Christmas markets), the new Peljesac bridge or plan a great one tour of all the highlights of Croatia. Need more inspiration? Then read our article about it free camping in Croatia.

Lady of the stone gate

The Stone Gate (location here) is a medieval stone city gate with a Maria chapel which is very popular among the locals for praying and burning candles. A special painting is exhibited and worshiped here.

Legend has it that a great fire in the year 1731 destroyed most of the Stone Gate, with the exception of the painting of 'The Virgin and Child', which came through without a scratch. The then ancient painting was found in the ashes after the fire was extinguished. The wooden frame had burned, but the flames did not touch the statue of the Virgin Mary. A legend was born.

The tunnel behind the stone gate is now a true open-air pilgrimage site. In the 10 minutes I was there, I saw dozens of people sit on the benches and pray there. There was also a constant small queue in front of the painting, where people made a cross. The ritual was completed by burning a candle led by this woman.

This special place clearly has a great emotional value for the local population. The walls in the chapel are decorated with hundreds of tiles that read “hvala', which means thanks in Croatian.

Zagreb Christmas Carol (tour)

Zagreb Christmas Carol is a tour / guided tour of the Old Town of Zagreb led by Mrs. Iva. During the walk she tells stories about long gone winters, unusual local customs and beliefs with mysterious anecdotes. She will take you to some unique, hidden places in the city. For example, it was Iva who tipped us to light a candle at Lady of the Stone Gate and about the Oktogon Passage to walk in.

Tip:: Iva's tours are seasonal (from the end of November to the beginning of January). You can book the tour with Iva via this website.

Oktogon Passage

When you walk through the city, make sure to visit the Oktogon Passage (Location here). The passage is beautifully decorated and is an attraction in itself, but at the end of the passage don't forget to look up to admire the beautifully decorated stained glass roof.

Making workshop 'Štrukli'

Strukli is a dish from the region of the Croatian capital Zagreb and you can go in Villa Zelenjak (more info at the bottom of the blog), do a fun workshop to learn how to make it. The dish is a kind of strudel, a mighty and savory casserole of dough, two kinds of cheese, eggs and sour cream. Štrukli has been known for centuries and it is prepared in countless ways. Salty or sweet, fried or boiled.

Tip:: the workshop takes place in hotel and restaurant Villa Zelenjak (prices and availability here), about a 40-minute drive from the center of Zagreb. Combine this workshop and the restaurant with a day of wellness Hotel Well Terme Tuhelj (prices and availability here).

Visiting Castle (Veliki Tabor Castle)

Although Veliky Tabor Castle (Location here) was barely visible from a distance in the wintry and misty conditions, it was still a fun and interesting trip. A welcome change from all the eating, drinking and relaxing.

The castle of Veliki Tabor is one of the most important cultural and historical monuments in Croatia, with a unique monumental and authentic value. Millions have been invested by the Croatian government in recent years to restore this beautiful fortress and castle.

For just a few euros entrance fee, you can freely walk around the castle and the museum to discover everything for yourself. It is also possible to attend a short tour, where a guide will tell you everything about the castle and the history behind it. There are some noteworthy objects in the castle, which are worth seeing.

How about the age-old stove, for example? This antique stove is hundreds of years old and is heated by the fireplace on the other side of the wall. I've never seen anything like it before. The stove has many beautiful details and is well preserved.

In the photo below it may not be visible at first, but this room was the prison / torture chamber of the castle. In the rack on the left hang various torture objects such as knives, pins, whips and tongs.

The chair on the right is completely covered with many sharp steel nails and pins. With large vices they could press your legs and arms tighter and tighter in the chair with pins. Not something you want to be in, I think.

Tip:: A visit to this castle can easily be combined with a day at Wellness Hotel Well Terme Tuhelj. Enjoy a sauna and a massage in the morning, visit the castle in the afternoon and end your day at Vuglec Breg Restaurant & Winery. The wellness hotel, the castle and Vuglec Breg Restaurant and Winery are relatively close to each other, about a 45-minute drive from Zagreb.

Obitelj Salaj – 4,5 million Christmas lights

About an hour's drive east of Zagreb, you can Obitel Salaj (Location here) attend. Of course I have been to a Christmas market with many Christmas lights before, but I have never seen so many Christmas lights together. At Obitelj Salaj, they start decorating the park months in advance. In 2022 they have achieved an incredible record of 4,5 million Christmas lights. The plan is to even expand this to 6 million Christmas lights in the coming years.

You can walk around here for an hour and not see everything. There are also restaurants, bars and an ice skating rink. Unfortunately we had a rainy day, so it was not very busy. On a dry day, however, it will be very busy and cozy here, according to our guide. Good weather or bad weather, I thought it was very special to see so many Christmas lights together. It gave a lot of atmosphere and it was fun to walk around with the camera.

Good food and drink

There is no shortage of good food and drinks in Croatia! Few days after I got back from my one year journey across America, I was in Croatia again. I immediately noticed one of the most striking differences between these two countries: good food and drinks and a lot of fun. What a contrast! That's something I really missed in America... The gastronomy of Croatia is really fantastic, a world of difference from the many fast-food joints in America.

Croatian cuisine consists largely of meat and fish dishes, which is of course fanatical for enthusiasts. The portions are generally large and the prices are still low compared to the Netherlands. Vegetarians have to try a little harder in Croatia. Fortunately, even in Croatia, I've seen more and more vegetarian options on the menus in recent years. That is of course a positive development for the vegetarians among us.

Villa Zelenjak

Villa Zelenjak (Location here) is the place where I learned to make the regional dish 'Štrukli' during a workshop. Villa Zelenjak is a small-scale hotel with a restaurant in the beautiful and hilly nature, about a 10-minute drive from Hotel Well Terme Tuhelj (more info about that at the bottom of the blog). Combine this experience with a visit to the Welness Hotel!

As often in Croatia, our experience in this restaurant started first with a local welcome drink: Slivovitz. Slivovitz is a brandy distilled from fermented plums, which is drunk throughout Croatia. A fermented plum is attached to the small sword in the glass. Usually they leave the fermented plum in the bottle. Eating this is seen as a real delicacy. Give it a try!

In this restaurant you can order well-known and lesser-known dishes. Whatever you choose as a main course, don't forget to order a meat platter, with local hams and cream cheese, as a starter and share it!

Vuglec Breg Restaurant & Winery

Another recommendation for fine dining is Vuglec Breg (Location here). The official name is Restaurant, winery and guesthouse Vuglec Breg. It is a kind of resort and restaurant with traditional houses that you can rent. But what has stayed with me the most is the wine tour and the delicious food.

They produce all the wine they serve here themselves. They make about 30.000 liters of wine a year on their estate and sell almost everything in their own and a few other affiliated restaurants in the region. Not only was the wine tour a delight for the taste buds. The wine that was served in the restaurant as well. Naturally matching with every served dish. Delicious!

Kezele Rural Tourism Estate & Restaurant

Kezele Rural Tourism Estate & Restaurant (Location here) may not be the most fancy restaurant, but it is the coziest! I can recommend a visit to this unique restaurant to anyone. For example, combine a visit to this restaurant with a visit to the 4,5 million Christmas lights of Obitel Salaj.

The estate consists of some old farmhouses, which are more than 100 years old and have been very well preserved. On arrival (and/or departure) you will also be treated to some locally made brandies here. Cheers!

Dinner is prepared here in the middle of the restaurant in a traditional way, on a large metal dish that is more than 100 years old. There is also live music on Fridays and weekends. When we were there on a Friday evening, many Croatian songs were sung along by the guests and there was also a lot of dancing. It was a nice way to get acquainted with old-fashioned Croatian folksy.

Vinodol restaurant

I think this restaurant is the most elegant where we have eaten. Vinodol restaurant (Location here), is located in the very center of Zagreb. As the name probably suggests, the wine list is also an important part of the menu here. The portions here were considerably smaller than what we've been served in other restaurants before, but it was still more than adequate. Clearly a lot of thought was put into presentation in this restaurant. The restaurant is large and spacious and the food was again fantastic.

Hotels

Hotel Sheraton (5*)

This elegant 5-star hotel is located in the heart of Zagreb, 500 meters from the main train station and 1 km from the main square. It Sheraton Zagreb offers free access to the heated indoor pool and gym in the Health Club. As far as I am concerned, this hotel is the perfect base for a city trip to Zagreb, whether in winter during Advent Zagreb or in summer.

Tip:: More photos, prices and availability for Sheraton Hotel in Zagreb you can here to look at.

Hotel Well Terme Tuhelj

Want to escape the hustle and bustle and the cold? You will find the wellness resort about a 45-minute drive from Zagreb Hotel Well Terme Tuhelj. While it's freezing outside, you can take a dip in one of the warm swimming pools, visit the sauna and, as icing on the cake, get a wonderful massage here.

Of course I don't have pictures of the massage, but I can tell you from personal experience that the massage was really fantastic. It was wonderful to spend a day in this well-heated wellness hotel in the winter.

Tip:: More photos, prices and availability for Hotel Well Terme Tuhelj can you here to look at.

Jägerhorn Hotel

I did not stay in this hotel myself, but our guide advised us to take a look here. Hotel Jägerhorn first opened its doors in 1827 and is the city's oldest surviving hotel. In honor of Advent Zagreb, the hotel is beautifully decorated every year and has become a popular place for beautiful Instagram photos. You can see how busy it was in the photo below. Young people often come and go here for the best photos.

Tip:: Of course you can also just stay in this hotel. Prices and availability for Jägerhorn Hotel can you here to look at.

Conclusion

I have been to Croatia more than twenty times, but always in the summer. This was the first time I got to experience a (part of) Croatia in winter. Where you normally visit the nature parks, waterfalls and coast in Croatia in the summer, you can focus more on wellness, culture, gastronomy and conviviality in the winter.

I had fantastic days in and around Zagreb in winter. It Advent Zagreb event felt like much more than a Christmas market. It was busy on the street until midnight. There was dancing with lots of music, drinks and fun. The trips outside Zagreb to the vineyards with many good restaurants and wine tastings were a nice addition and a delight for the taste buds. This extensive city trip to Croatia was probably the first time in winter, but certainly not the last.

Until the next blog!