We go during our roadtrip through the Baltic States in search of the differences between Estonia, Latvia en Lithuania† When you enter an unknown country it is always nice to discover what you encounter, what the people are like, what the landscape and the houses look like and what any customs are. if overlanders we are somewhat primitive in some things, but a prepaid internet card has gradually become a basic necessity of life.
Also read: Eastern Europe | The 'Eastern Bloc' is so much hipper than you think!
Lithuania
We start our roadtrip by the Baltic States in Lithuania. When we enter Lithuania we go directly to the first village with a telephone shop. In Lithuania this is a local supermarket, where they also sell internet cards. Our first question, just to indicate that we do not speak Lithuanian, is therefore standard: Do you speak English? The cashier understands the question, but the answer is clear: No!
But then she will do her utmost to sell us the right card with hands and feet. If the first contact goes this way, we immediately feel welcome. So perfect. Internet in Lithuania is fun anyway, for 5 euros you can have unlimited and fast internet for a week.
sparsely populated
After we had fulfilled our first necessity of life, we could see on our digital maps, among other things, that the Dzūkija . National Park on the road to Vilnius. This southern part of Lithuania is very sparsely populated, a fantastic landscape, hilly with an alternation of small pieces of agricultural land and beautiful untouched nature. The way to our overnight place in the middle of the national park the last 30 kilometers turns out to be a gravel road. We find a place for the night in an open space on one of the many lakes… first thing in the morning to take a dip.
Nature, tranquility and traditional food
The continuation to Vilnius we drive via an off-road route. We often take these kinds of routes, not even to test ourselves and the camper, but usually it takes you to the most beautiful places. So also this time. Via back paths we arrive at a swamp area where it is quiet and we can spot beautiful birds.
We see a number of great egrets. We have lunch and enjoy our newly bought traditional pasta, the name of which we have not been given. It looks like oliebol and pancake at the same time and is filled with meat. Mmmm… On the way you see women regularly selling blueberries, raspberries or jam made from them. They picked the fruits themselves in the forest.
Self-picked mushrooms are also very popular. Everything is spacious in this part of Lithuania. The long, straight roads are wide and people live in rural houses with large (vegetable) gardens.
Vilnius
In the capital of Lithuania there are so many historic buildings that you quickly lose count. The different styles are striking. Polish, Lithuanian, Jewish and Russian influences, a surprise from every street corner. Getting married is popular on the Saturday that we visit the city. We have seen at least 12 couples, in the many photogenic places in the city. We regularly grab a terrace and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere.
Furthermore, Vilnius is a modern city with - it seems - prosperous inhabitants. Later we visit the KGB museum, which is located in the building from which the Russians forged their plans in ancient times. Lithuania has been occupied by various rulers for several decades. People were imprisoned and killed in terrible conditions in the cellars. The Russians weren't much better than the Germans.
Trakai
Located west of Vilnius Trakai: the name of the village, castle and a National Park at the same time. The 14th-century castle, located on an island, is located in a large wetland area that attracts many day trippers. We look around, take a terrace and enjoy the atmosphere. We take a picture of the outside of the castle. To see the inside we have to stand in a huge line, that's not for us.
canoe polo
In the recreational area around Trakai we discovered a new sport for us: Kanopolo. It is most like water polo as the participants move through the water in canoes. There are high goals.
On our way to the west of Lithuania we take rural roads and cross the center of the country. Many grain fields (the harvest is in full swing) are interspersed with nature and small picturesque villages. Many houses are made of wood.
Curonian Spit
It has been many weeks since we have seen the sea. There is something magical about the sea and the waves. So quickly on to the west. The Curonian Spit is a peninsula on the west coast. From Lithuania you have to transfer with a pound. The southern side of the peninsula is attached to Kaliningrad, the Russian exclave. The dunes on the peninsula are up to 55 meters high, making them the highest in Europe.
Tourism is an important source of income on the peninsula. The fantastic beaches and charming villages are a major attraction. We stay there for two days, looking in the villages and swimming in the sea. Along the coast we leave Lithuania in a northerly direction and continue exploring Latvia.
Latvia
Finding the differences between the Baltic States during this roadtrip is not such an easy task. Of course every country has its own history, but at first glance there are more similarities than differences. We experienced the people in Lithuania as friendly, in Latvia they are a bit more modest. They help you in a businesslike way and on the street they usually look straight ahead. A spontaneous “hello” is less likely to be heard.
Rain and wind on the coast
Our first stop is at Liepāja, a town on the coast. It is rainy and quite stormy. But luckily we find a place behind some bushes. Liepāja used to be a naval base of the Soviets. You can still see huge bunkers which served as a safe place against attacks from the sea. But they never really functioned. So they just blew them up, but they were too strong even for that. The old ruins are still there to this day, as cleaning up is apparently too expensive.
Many Russians have worked and lived around the naval base, the many flats are still there. They are now rented out to people with a smaller wallet. Some have been refurbished, but sometimes you get the impression that you are still in old Soviet times.
Widest waterfall in Europe
We drive on to the town kuldīga, where at 240 meters, the widest waterfall in Europe is located. It has only one meter drop, yet it is a curious sight. When the salmon make their way up the river, they jump over the falls. Fishermen have devised a special construction to catch them.
emeri National Park
On the way to Riga we stop at the emeri NP where we walk the Great Ķemeri Bog Boardwalk. It is a huge swamp area where information boards explain in great detail the origin of swamp over the centuries. A wooden decking path of about 4 km runs through the swamps and fens. At the end point is a watchtower with a great view.
Riga
Since we have set ourselves the goal of visiting at least the capitals of the Baltic States during our roadtrip through the Baltic States, Riga is also on the program. Riga is the largest capital of the three Baltic countries. To be honest…we are not really impressed with the city. There is a resigned atmosphere, perhaps Latvian. There are some beautiful buildings, but there is no unity.
Old, new and various styles are intertwined. A really cozy central square with catering is missing. Perhaps we are now a bit city-weary… We thought the large daily market, housed in the enormous halls where zeppelins were made, was worth a visit. Many fresh local delicacies are offered here. We stood on tiptoe in front of the pastry stand…
Gauja National Park
After Riga we continue on an off-road track, which is partly a cross track. Nice piece where we can practice to what extent we can climb a steep hill through loose sand. That's fine, but at a certain point it gets so steep that even our 4×4 is no longer able to lift the 3500 kilos.
We continue to NP Gauja, near the village of Sigulda. It is quite a touristic village with many outdoor activities. We spend the night in a parking lot near a cable car which goes over a small valley.
Via one of our apps we find a walk of about 31 kilometers. Very varied, some villages, forests, open areas, a surprising cafe, castles, bridges and a wide river are among the ingredients. The tourist area here is quite busy, but not too busy, cozy.
Estonia
We continue our roadtrip through the Baltic States and drive into Estonia. If you "google" Estonia, not many highlights come up. We therefore decide to cross the country without too many goals, whereby the route in any case goes over the western islands of Saaremaa and Hiiumaa.
There are countless islands off the coast of Estonia, from tiny to large and inhabited. Saaremaa is the largest, comparable to Luxembourg. The largest islands can be reached by ferry by motorhome. The islands are not overrun by tourists and the natural combination between land and sea is fantastic. We cruise the islands from left to right, from west to east, via the most remote roads and enjoy to the fullest. In the cozy main village of Kuressaare we take a terrace and see satisfied and friendly faces passing by. It must be nice living here.
Walk through the water
On the west side of Saaremaa we make a erg special walk in the NP Vilsandic† The walk is for the most part through the water. We walk a route of about 10 kilometers in a fantastic nature reserve with islands, deeper and shallower parts. We walk through the water in old shoes, shorts, and a jacket with a backpack.
In the deepest spots, you'll get about to your stomach wet as you shuffle along on slippery rocks or muddy ground. You imagine yourself in the middle of the water-rich nature between swans, herons, gulls and many other types of water birds. You then move between the reeds, then again on an open part, or on an island between the junipers.
Tallinn
We continue our roadtrip through the Baltic States towards Talinn the capital of Estonia. As the capital of Estonia, we have completely fallen for this city. What a ge-dig-e city. The cozy atmosphere, the friendliness, the beautiful medieval atmosphere… we are impressed.
We are going out to eat in a restaurant Olde Hansarestaurant, fully set up in a medieval atmosphere. Everything has been thought of down to the smallest detail.
Estonia ship disaster
In September 1994 we were glued to the TV because of the sinking of the Estonia† We had not forgotten the terrible images. For those who don't know: The Estonia sank on the way to Stockholm. 852 people lost their lives in the disaster. We stop at the monument: The Broken Link
Conclusion roadtrip Baltic states
Unconsciously we go during and after our roadtrip with the 4×4 motorhome by comparing the different countries with each other by the Baltic States. When entering Lithuania we were positively surprised about the nature and friendly people. In Latvia the people are a bit more modest, but we had higher expectations of the capital Riga in particular.
Estonia has been a great experience for us. The islands around Saaremaa and the capital Tallinn -perhaps the most beautiful city in Europe- are well worth a visit. Overall we liked the Scandinavian influence towards the north will become more and more noticeable. Maybe logical.
