Who dares to drive more than 3.000 kilometers on a scooter through East Africa? Visiting mountain gorillas? Scooter safaris (does this word exist?) in five National parks† To admire lions, buffaloes, hippos and elephants up close, among other things. My name is Eric and I like to travel around on a scooter. Read here part 11 of the unique report of an amazing scooter adventure Uganda, Rwanda en Kenya† In the eleventh part of this trip I drive from Hoima to one of the most beautiful national parks in Africa: Murchison Falls National Park.
Also read:
East Africa on a scooter | Part 1 | From Kampala to Kigali (180 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 2 | Bugala Island – Lake Mburo (170 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 3 | Lake Mburo National Park – Kabale (230 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 4 | Kabale – Ruhija – Gorilla trekking (50 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 5 | Bwindi – Kabale – Kigali (160 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 6 | Kigali Genocide Memorial – Kabale
East Africa on a scooter | Part 7 | Kabale – Queen Elizabeth National Park (175 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 8 | Queen Elizabeth NP – Fort Portal (120km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 9 | Fort Portal – Muhorro (100 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 10 | Muhorro – Hoima (100 km)
Table of contents
Ankole cows and a lot of local interest
Several times I slow down, because another Ankole cow is grazing with insanely large horns. It's a beautiful morning. I drive through an incredibly beautiful scenery with termite mounds, grazing Ankole cows and amazed villagers. Would anyone have ever seen a white man on a scooter? I doubt it when I see the eyes of the adults.
In dry weather, the red clay-like dirt roads are no problem. The ground is rock hard. When it rains it is a slope.
Just before the village of Biso, a few children cheer me on exuberantly. 'Mzungu, mzungu!' Barefoot they transport considerable amounts of firewood on their heads.
In the village of Kigorobya I make a short stop. Immediately I am surrounded by villagers, who want to admire my scooter.
It's a repetition of moves, but I can't get enough of it. What fantastic horns those Ankole cows have.
By an hour I have almost 40 kilometers there when I again take a short rest in the village of Kapapi. It again provides a nice picture with enthusiastic villagers.
Arrive at Murchison Falls National Park
Around four o'clock I almost reached the end goal of the day. The ferry to Murchison Falls National Park is 35 kilometers away. In Buliisa I ask if there is accommodation anywhere near the national park.
A villager offers to guide me to a beautiful lodge on the Nile. 'It's called Murchison Treehouse and my brother owns it. I just called and you can stay overnight for $25. That's a bargain. Follow me.' I can barely keep up with him on his motorcycle. At half past six we arrive at Murchison Treehouse† A great place to have a day or two as a base for the national park.
It's time for a sundowner at Murchison Treehouse's restaurant. Somewhere from the Nile is the sound of hippos. From the bank a crocodile slides into the Nile.
A morning scooter safari in Murchison Falls National Park
The morning starts with a delicious breakfast on the Nile. Then it is time to drive towards the ferry in Paraa. The southern entrance to Murchison Falls National Park is only accessible by ferry. From the falls, the Nile flows 40 kilometers in an easterly direction via Lake Albert in a northerly direction.
There is quite a bit of surprise among the passengers on the ferry that crosses the Nile at 10.00:XNUMX am. "Are you taking that piki piki (Swahili for scooter) into the park?" The captain can't stop laughing. "Picture me with that thing." A few others follow.
Ten minutes later I drive the scooter off the ferry and report to the entrance. I'm with a local motorcyclist and that saves a lot of nagging. We both pay 20.000 UGX (Ugandan Shilling = approximately 4 Euro) for our vehicle. The entrance to the park is $40 per 24 hours.
This is my third national park on the scooter and it seems to be getting used to. Yet a minute later I was already shocked. I drive over the bridge and notice just in time that from behind the bushes two adult elephants with a baby elephant in their middle are crossing the road. So turn around and wait until the coast is clear. That takes a while because a whole herd follows.
Murchison Falls is home to over half of all Rothschild giraffes!
I'm a bit shocked when I drive up the bridge again. The elephants have walked about ten meters and are pulling branches from the trees with their trunks. After a fairly steep hill I look out over an enormous grassy plain. What a lovely park this is.
My morning safari lasts more than three hours, during which I regularly meet residents of the park. Including some very unique ones. What about dozens of Rothschild giraffes? This giraffe species is seriously threatened with extinction. It is estimated that there are still just over 2.000, with a few hundred in Ethiopia, South Sudan and Kenya. Uganda has 1.550 and many of them live here. In Murchison Falls, these elegant long necks really stand out among the graceful palm trees. It produces beautiful photographic material.
And what about the funny hussar monkey? From a distance it looks like this monkey is wearing sunglasses.
A few rare bluebottles (Southern Ground Hornbill) also report. The bromine is by far the largest hornbill. They can grow to almost five feet in length. Their infectious hum is a feast for the ears and reaches more than three kilometers.
Cleaning for the scooter in Pakwach
Around an hour I leave the park on the north side and pass the bridge over the Nile to Pakwach. Just after the bridge is a military checkpoint. 'We have a lot of trouble with Congolese gangs and smugglers. But it looks like you're not Congolese and you can't do much smuggling on that little piki piki.'
The soldier has to laugh a lot at his own joke. "How fast can it go?" 'Fifty to sixty km per hour with a tailwind, but it can no longer be burned forward. Do you know a mechanic?'
I'm lucky, because the soldier points to a truck that just came out of Murchison Falls. 'Ask the driver, because he's the park's mechanic. He can fix anything.' In just over half an hour he turns the scooter inside out. 'Can I give you a tip,' he reports when he has tested the scooter. 'Have your scooter cleaned regularly when you drive on dusty roads. There was really dust everywhere. Your exhaust was almost closed. You don't want bad luck between the buffalo and elephants.'
An Afternoon Safari and Sunset on the Nile
With peace of mind I leave Pakwach for the afternoon safari. Once again it is fun. Until I spot a large group of vultures near the airport. I also smell a pungent smell. There must be a cadaver somewhere. And that turns out to be the case. A little further is a dead young elephant.
At six I pay a visit to the five-star Paraa Lodge. I take a dip in the pool and a nice cup of fresh Ugandan coffee.
The last ferry leaves at seven o'clock. The sunset on the Nile is enchantingly beautiful. Half an hour later I report to the restaurant of my guesthouse on the Nile.
Also read:
East Africa on a scooter | Part 1 | From Kampala to Kigali (180 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 2 | Bugala Island – Lake Mburo (170 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 3 | Lake Mburo National Park – Kabale (230 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 4 | Kabale – Ruhija – Gorilla trekking (50 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 5 | Bwindi – Kabale – Kigali (160 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 6 | Kigali Genocide Memorial – Kabale
East Africa on a scooter | Part 7 | Kabale – Queen Elizabeth National Park (175 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 8 | Queen Elizabeth NP – Fort Portal (120km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 9 | Fort Portal – Muhorro (100 km)
East Africa on a scooter | Part 10 | Muhorro – Hoima (100 km)
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