Overlanding in Angola (2) | NoFear Travel in Africa (21)

On our world trip we ended up in Angola, boy, what a beautiful country, what friendly, helpful people, what beautiful landscapes and sights.

We (Cor and Grietje van NoFear Travel), travel with our Toyota Hilux 4×4 camper by Africa. The African continent is the Mecca for 'overlanding' with many challenging routes and beautiful destinations. The first African country we visited during our trip to South Africa is Morocco, followed by Mauritania, Senegal, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast en Ghana. After a stopover in the Netherlands, we continue our overland journey through Africa. We drove on Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Gabon en Congo-Brazzaville and currently we are in Angola.

Here is the second part of our experiences in Angola (part 1 here). As you are used to from us, you now start watching the video again.

Hippos

We heard through the grapevine about a river where we could see hippos. It turns out to be a remote place on the Cussoi River. The road to it is once again challenging. Large puddles and mud holes determine the road surface. But the landscape is once again phenomenal. Many small self-sufficient villages and fields where entire families are hoeing.

Until we reach the village of Humbi, a few houses large. Here a young man approaches us who wants to take us to the hippos. Another six kilometers over narrow paths brings us to the river. We park more or less on the bank and look for the hippos. We don't have to do much for that. Wow, about 100 meters further on we suddenly come face to face with a group in the middle of the river. What a unique experience, what a unique place!

We decide to stay here for a night, but it seems like staying inside after dark. The hippos come out of the water at night to eat grass…

Hippos, a little background

Hippos are among the largest land mammals and can weigh up to 1800 kilos. However, they spend a large part of the day in the water. No, not for fishing, but to cool off. They only eat plant food, preferably grass. That's why they come out of the water at night to eat. They only occur in Africa, and then the southern part.

You like to keep a little distance from a hippo. One bite from the enormously powerful beak with large teeth is fatal. In addition, they can also gallop at 30 kilometers per hour. 

The hippopotamus actually only has one enemy, humans. They are hunted for meat and ivory, while their habitats are declining anyway. They were not protected where we saw them, but as far as we know, they were not hunted either.

Along the coast

Our journey continues along roads with breathtaking views, people waving and hardworking farmers hoeing their fields, towards the coast, Sumbe.

We camp on beaches along the coast south, sometimes at a restaurant. If you eat there, you can stand freely and use the facilities. 

We pass places like Lobito and Benguela and Cor goes diving and Grietje snorkels at Caotinha. It is striking that the ocean water towards the south is becoming clearer and the beaches are cleaner and whiter.

The environment has now changed dramatically into a desert landscape. That reminds us of the south of Morocco and Mauritania.

Along the way we stop at a dry river and talk to a -coincidentally- English-speaking village boy. He says that it never actually rains in this area. But the river brings enough water from the mountains in the wet season so that it is a green oasis.

Also striking is the changing clothing of the men who wear medium-length skirts here.

The difference between rich and poor comes to light here again. We meet a group of children dressed in rags. They stand by the camper and watch with curious eyes. But they don't beg. 

And a little further on we see a piece of maize land, sown by machine! Then they will also harvest mechanically, right? Must be a richer farmer!

Whales and dolphins 

Along the way we regularly meet other overlanders, with whom we often exchange stories and experiences. We had already met the German/Turkish couple Hans and Bente.

Later, while eating a sandwich somewhere in the middle of nowhere, we meet John and Isabelle, Swiss.

They are also on their way south.

Later in the day we find a spot for the night along the coast near a lighthouse. And yes, John and Isabelle are also here. While we enjoy a glass of wine together and the secluded spot, we suddenly see a few whales playing in the ocean in front of us. Great, we couldn't be happier, so spontaneous!

And if that's not enough, a family of dolphins also swims past. We'll have another glass of wine!

No more words

We descend further towards the coastal town Namibe. We drive over a beautiful asphalt layer where we encounter a (truck) car every fifteen minutes. We really only have the road to ourselves. We meander through the constantly changing mountain landscape. Sometimes we can look 5-6 kilometers ahead and still see the road. Then we go back to the coast, a ride of about 25 kilometers over very challenging rock paths. But when we arrive at the coast, it turns out to be well worth it. The views over the coastline are phenomenal. The remoteness and the fact that we are alone here means that we run out of words for a moment and squeeze each other. Yes, it's real!

The dolphins and whales are putting on a show again and we even think we saw an orca.

Crabs

Down at the waterline are some kind of natural swimming pools. Behind the rocks where the waves are calm for a while, every now and then a new tank of water appears when a high wave occurs. There is a beautiful view of the ocean and the amazing coastline!

You have to be careful when entering. Such a “swimming pool” is full of uncertainties. There are razor-sharp thorny plants and at least 30 crabs appear when we enter the water. The color of these crabs is fantastically adapted to the black rock. But apparently they are more afraid of us than we are of them.

The Namibe desert

We descend even further south and arrive at Namibe desert. A huge area where we can play in the sand with our camper. And we do that, until two of us get stuck, stuck! The sand here is apparently less “catchy” than in the desert of Mauritania.

Anyway, with a shovel and a row of plates we can get out of here.

We enjoy the infinity and the mirages around us.

There are some light dunes near the coast and we see a shipwreck on the beach.

It is very remote and quiet here, not a soul to be seen! Only a few car tracks in the sand from previous desert drivers.

A little inland again 

The amount of different landscapes in Angola seems endless. This also applies to the part east of Tombua. 

Here we visit the “Arcos”. A beautiful view through a mountain ridge. We take plenty of pictures, so beautiful! Erosion has left beautiful sculptures in the sandstone here.

Then we drive on to Colinas do Namibe, loosely translated as "hills", a stunning landscape where - here too - erosion has shown its most beautiful side. Worn mountain parts create the strangest shapes and colors. The red color here is the most striking.

But the beauty here is again, you can drive straight through it, there is no one in sight and no entrance fee is charged. Angola, so pure!

We take a look at a group of men and women who are busy mining salt. The layers of various soil types here are full of salt, apparently the sea once ruled here.

We spend the night in a spot under the clear starry sky Welwitschia plant. We see this special plant in several places here. This specimen is famous for its size. The 1,50 height seems to be exceptional. The plant is unique to the desert and only occurs in Angola and Namibia. Most plants live 500-600 years.

Our journey continues through the south of Angola….more soon in part 3. Missed part 1? Then click here.