NoFear Travel in Africa (17) | Overlanding in Cameroon

We (Cor and Grietje van NoFear Travel), travel with our Toyota Hilux 4×4 camper by Africa. The African continent is the Mecca for 'overlanding' with many challenging routes and beautiful destinations. The first African country we visited during our trip to South Africa is Morocco, followed by Mauritania, Senegal, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ivory Coast en Ghana. After a stopover in the Netherlands we continue our overland journey through Africa. We started in Togo, Benin en Nigeria and have now arrived in Cameroon. You can read all about it in this article.

As you are used to from us, you now start by watching the video, which starts with a very challenging stage through the mud.

Border crossing Nigeria – Cameroon

Who our story about Nigeria If you have read it, you probably remember something about the bizarre roads to the border crossing. After we have obtained the necessary exit stamps on the Nigerian side, we drive through no man's land and report to the Cameroonian immigration service and gendarmerie. After a tiring day we stay here for a night.

The gentlemen tell us that we still have 30 kilometers to go before we reach Banyo in Cameroon. They assure us that the path is at least as bad as the part we just went through. To be honest, knowing this does not contribute to a relaxing night, it is raining, we sleep poorly!

The next morning we set off early, into the unknown, knowing there is no way back.

The first kilometer goes well, but then it starts, steep descents over slippery rocks, constantly trying to choose the best track. Then again large puddles whose depth we cannot properly estimate. Our Toyota Hilux 4×4 camper gets stuck in the mud and we need the winch to get out.

At random we follow our way over bridges of which we do not know how strong they are. We don't come across any other vehicle except sometimes a moped.

It starts to rain harder and we slide downhill through water channels. Until we have to pass a river. We check the depth, current and subsurface and think we can make it. I'll have to, going back is not an option.

With all options the Toyota Hilux engaged, including limited slip differential, we pass the river and climb the smooth hill behind it. We are followed by the local youth who live in the village behind the hill.

A sigh of relief, so far, so good!

Cameroon | Into the country

After we get in Bathroom Once we have been able to arrange a number of practical matters (SIM card, exchange money, bread), we continue to a spot about 5 kilometers outside the village. Here we rest for two days while enjoying a beautiful view to process our Nigeria adventure.

Our first impression of the Cameroonian “rural” people is that they wave friendly. Sometimes they are a bit reserved, but after the first contact they are still friendly.

In the next village where we stop for some shopping, we notice that people only speak French. Yet we meet an English-speaking young man. He says that he feels absolutely out of place here. 

Some information and facts about Cameroon

One of the bigger issues in the country is the quarrel between the French majority and the English minority. The country was once colonized by both French and British. To date, it has resulted in an armed conflict that only takes place in English-speaking areas.

The country is about 11 times the size of the Netherlands and has just under 30 million people. A large part of the country consists of jungle and it also has two larger towns, Douala and the capital Yaoundé. In Cameroon, most people are Christian, besides a group of Muslims.

Further south

After we leave another 150 kilometers of absurdly bad dirt road behind us (technically not difficult, but full of potholes, so you drive a maximum of 15-20 kilometers per hour), perfect asphalt suddenly begins at Magma. We pass many villages and sometimes stop for groceries. Except for onions, there are no vegetables for sale anywhere, so we open our last can of peas.

We stop for an overnight stay at a football field where we are of course surrounded by half the village population. Let's have a party! For some peace and quiet, we spend the night on the grounds of a monastery, where 14 monks live and work.

Then we arrive in Bafoussam, a real big city. Here we come into contact with a well-educated English-speaking woman. She tells us all the ins and outs about the civil war that is going on in the southwest.

She even comes from that region where English-speaking separatists are strongly fighting for independence. She also belongs to the English speakers herself, but she is far from agreeing with the separatists and has therefore fled to the safety of Bafoussam. We find it impressive to hear her story firsthand.

We go to the supermarket in town where we feel “like a child in a candy store”. We can finally buy beans, carrots and even white cabbage at the market again. Along the way we help some people with our winch who have recently had an accident.

Ekom waterfalls

Anyone who follows us knows that we have seen quite a few waterfalls on our travels. We mainly saw many variations, wide, high specimens during our travels Norway en Iceland. The Ekom waterfalls in Cameroon are also at the top. What violence, what a huge bucket of water comes down here. We are there in the rainy season and the waterfall is at its most beautiful. And the nice thing is that you can get very close to it. That is, the upper part. If you ever visit Cameroon it is a real “must see”.

Spend the night with the monks

We sometimes spend the night in the most special places. We sleep, among other things, in guarded hotel parking lots. At half past six in the morning we are awakened by some commotion around the camper. The hotel security guard could no longer tolerate the fact that the car was so dirty and spontaneously washed it!

In Cameroon we also spend the night on monk mission sites. You are usually very welcome and you are often given a room where you can wash and shower. At one of the missions we are invited to eat with the brothers. A special experience.

The brothers and sisters are very happy with a small donation!

Twin lakes

From the hamlet Mbouroukou we take a mountain walk to a crater containing two lakes: Lac Male and Lac Femelle (men's and women's lake)

You can also reach this crater with a 4×4 car, but we were informed that it is very difficult, or actually impossible, to do so in the rainy season. Besides, it had been a long time since we had used our walking muscles. So put on your walking shoes and get out there! We knew the route Wikiloc obtained and adjusted a bit myself. There was a total of about 1000 meters of climbing, many of which were steep mud paths, so we were already tired halfway through.

The enormous crater at about 2100 meters and the area around it is inhabited by the Wodaabe/Borroro tribe. These people are largely self-sufficient and live mainly from their livestock. They obviously have no means of transport and only occasionally come “down” on horseback.

We saw their primary school which was now closed for classes due to summer break. Luckily the door was open so we could take a look inside. A few school desks and a blackboard on a sand floor where the goats also walk was all we saw. Very primitive, but great to see.

Once on the top edge of the crater it was time for a sandwich and we took pictures of a beautiful view.

Coffee in Yaounde

To obtain the visas for both Congos we go to the embassies Yaounde. They need some copies so we look for a copy shop. We found it quickly. Next to it is a cafe. A great opportunity for a cup of coffee. The café itself does not have coffee, but a lady with a stall on the street does. “Milk and sugar,” she asks. "No thanks. We pay 75 cents for two large mugs of coffee, the water of which was heated in a frying pan. She brings the coffee to our table in the café.

A little further on there is a stall with oliebollen. Delicious, with coffee. A whole bag full for 45 cents. She doesn't have sugar, nor does the coffee saleswoman. They refer us to a shop further away where sugar is for sale. Per lump.

“No”, we would like powder. No problem, he takes a sandwich bag and scoops it full of sugar from a huge burlap bag. 15 cents!

Spend the night at Didier garage in Yaoundé

In Yaoundé we come across a garage where we can do some maintenance. Owner Didier runs the business together with about ten young employees. The boys are not really trained as mechanics, but they are eager to learn. You can have any technical job done there. But take a look…. There is a shed with a lot of tools that you can use freely. Everything related to cars and motorcycles is available.

There is a pleasant atmosphere and Didier helps with everything. A hairdresser, laundry, a map, parts, just ask. It will be delivered or it will be collected!

You can spend the night in your own vehicle on site, for as long as you want. There is a water tap and a toilet available. And even more fun... such a place attracts other overlanders, and that invites an exchange of stories.

So we met a couple New Zealanders of which the man had a Dutch father and therefore spoke good Dutch. They have an overland car in there South Africa bought and travel north. Because they were overloaded, their chassis was torn in several places. They will stay here with Didier for a while longer. We also met an American man with his son and Bruno, an ex-army officer in the French army.

We took the time to do postponed chores and explore Yaoundé. Pay? At Didier you decide what you pay.

An amazing experience!

Conclusion: Cameroon is a great place to go

The people inside Cameroon are great. We experienced them as somewhat withdrawn, friendly and expectant. But if you have contact with them once, they are very friendly. The withdrawn behavior ensures that people hardly ask or beg, which makes it more pleasant for the white visitor. There is certainly poverty in Cameroon, but we feel that the country is further along in its development than many other West African countries. You can clearly see the difference between the urban environment and the countryside, where people are often self-sufficient on a piece of land and some livestock.

The traffic is calm and disciplined, especially after the honking traffic in Nigeria. Faith plays - at least visibly - a much less important role. No large signboards with Christian invitations or cars covered in church slogans. 

The country has plenty to offer for a somewhat adventurous visitor.