Scooter roadtrip Africa (11) | Wundanyi–Taita Hills–Kilifi

In the eleventh blog I enter Kenya from the Sentrim Tsavo East lodge to Wundanyi in the Taita Hills. After a few days in Wundanyi I move to the beautiful Taita Hills Safari Lodge. This blog ends in Kilifi, on the unsurpassed Swahili coast.

A few days in and around the mountains in Wundanyi

After an extensive farewell from the wonderful staff of Sentrim Tsavo East Lodge, an employee takes me to the gas station in Voi. There I transfer to my scooter and drive towards the mountains of Taita Hills (alt. approx. 2.300 meters). On the new highway (A6) that ends 100 km south in Taveta on the border with Tanzania (straight through Tsavo West National Park). However, this time I turn right after 30 km in Mwatate. From here, a new road with quite a few hairpin bends also leads up to Wundanyi at 1.400 meters.

In Wundanyi, which with about 50.000 inhabitants is still a relatively large city by Kenyan standards, I move into the Taita Rocks Hotel. I stay there for three nights. During the day I enjoy myself. On the scooter I explore the mountainous surroundings via numerous winding paths. I visit the local Taita market and report to the football stadium on Saturday where the local FC plays a league match.

Mwatate, Maktau and Bura

In October the weather is really fine. The differences are really huge between the low plains south of the mountains and the mountain area itself. It rains regularly in the mountains. While in the low plains (Tsavo West) there is an enormous drought. Many buffaloes and antelopes have since died. The carcasses stink for an hour in the wind and I can smell that smell from a distance of five kilometers.

On my scooter I alternate safaris on the highway with trips through the mountains. Up via Bura and around the mountain to Wundyani. In Mwatate I always replenish my supply of lollipops. I make the little ones I meet along the way very happy (and mom always wants one too). At the hairdresser I let myself be measured for a new haircut.

Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary

In the meantime I have also had a pretty perilous adventure in the nature reserves of Taita Hills and Lumo. From the highway I followed a road sign to a World War I monument. A neglected railway line runs through Taita Hills and Lumo. It once ran from Kenya, colonized by England, to Tanganyika (German territory) and was a strategic point where thousands of (mainly) African soldiers fought each other for their British and German commanders.

The monuments are not much, but that was not my concern (see below about the beautiful museum in the lobby of Taita Hills Safari Lodge about this battle during the First World War).

That's how I ended up unofficially in the reservations. After quite a climb over a sandy track I reported to Tsavo Bluff Lodge. The bar staff were therefore completely surprised that I parked my scooter in front of their panoramic restaurant. After a cup of coffee they showed me how to get to the exit of the reserve. 'Pay attention, because do you see that herd of elephants there?'

Oh and forewarned counts for two. But what if your scooter doesn't cooperate? In other words, exactly where the herd of elephants stopped, my scooter stopped. Fortunately, the rocky path went downhill and it was not too bad to push the scooter. Over two kilometers long… Until I reached the exit of Lumo (Taita Hils Game Reserve and Lumo border each other). There was great consternation. 'How did you get in, because scooters are forbidden? So we can't charge an entrance fee (30 dollars).'

And what a wonderful place Kenya is. After half an hour of walking with the scooter, I was standing next to the highway. A motorcyclist stopped and conjured up a rope. Half an hour later we were at the gas station in Mwatate and my scooter was completely dismantled. The problem: a lot of sand in the carburetor.

Would you like to know more about the safari and accommodation options in Taita Hills Game Reserve and Lumo? Read that blog via the link below.

Also read: Roadtrip Africa (10) | Tsavo Western National Park

From Taita Hills to Kilifi (220 km) via Bamba

After a week and a half it is time for the unsurpassed Swahili coast. For that I first drive 50 km to Voi. There I turn onto the Nairobi – Mombasa highway. It is sometimes necessary to be careful on the scooter. With every oncoming truck I'm going to drive on the verge as a precaution. To avoid being blown off the road by the air pressure. After an hour I take a break at a huge souvenir shop, which has not been able to sell a single souvenir for months due to Covid.

Oh and then I enjoy it to the fullest, because a few shepherds guide their flock over the highway with verve (see youtube video).

Until the next blog!